![]() 01/16/2017 at 19:47 • Filed to: DIY, Mazda, Miata | ![]() | ![]() |
As you can see, my positive terminal cracked, so I could no longer get it tight enough over the post to start my car.
Really didn’t feel like replacing the entire cable as first gen Miatas have their battery in the back so I would have to route a cable through the entire car.
I did this instead. Where do I get my shadetree mechanic card..?
One year later and no problems. Except that was my only clamp/locking wrench thingy and I kinda miss it...
![]() 01/16/2017 at 19:50 |
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Was that a fuCKING PUN
![]() 01/16/2017 at 19:54 |
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Why not just solder on a new clamp?
![]() 01/16/2017 at 19:55 |
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Do you have a problem with my miatafication–er I mean modification..?
![]() 01/16/2017 at 19:58 |
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No soldering gun, but that’s probably what I’ll do soon.
And at the time I didn’t realize that was an option... This is my first car that I’ve wrenched on so learning as I go!
![]() 01/16/2017 at 20:09 |
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![]() 01/16/2017 at 20:29 |
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![]() 01/16/2017 at 20:29 |
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Could always buy a cheapy Chinese clamp from somewhere to get your good one back....or, you know, just fix it the normal way sometime......down the road, when you feel like it! :P
![]() 01/16/2017 at 20:49 |
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There’s an argument for not soldering connections in cars due to its relatively low melting point.
but crimpers large enough to do a battery terminal crimp aren’t cheap, but boy can things go wrong with bad battery connections. Is that worth dealing with over the $50 for a crimper?
![]() 01/16/2017 at 23:34 |
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Just buy a new bolt on terminal clamp. They’re literally $2 at Napa advance or AutoZone. Starting a fire to save $2 doesn’t seem like a good idea.
![]() 01/17/2017 at 06:02 |
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Thanks, I didn’t know that. I appreciate the heads up. So crimp only?
![]() 01/17/2017 at 07:01 |
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Yep! Crimp only.